Best Type of Auto Paint for Your Car

I often field questions regarding the various types of automotive paint available and what types are best. There's no one answer that covers every situation rather answers or suggestions that are dependent on each situation in a refinishing job. There are many factors that go into choosing which is the best type of paint for your needs but final appearance, ease of use, cost, and durability are the biggest factors most consider. If we focus on these considerations and walk you through the process hopefully we will have helped you make the right decision for your situation.
To Prime or Not to Prime?
The short answer to this question is always use the proper primer system whenever you can afford to do so. Most car owners are unaware of the process of finishing a car to a "class A" finish. The first step to ensuring a quality paint job that lasts is the proper selection and use of a primer. Primer is a broad category encompassing anti-corrosive primers which prevent metal surfaces from corroding, primer surfacers which fill small dings, dents and scratches, primer sealers which seal off undercoats in preparation for applying color coats, and adhesion primers whose primary function is to ensure adhesion to a particular surface. This may seem overwhelming to the beginner but bear in mind that not all of those types of primers are always required and many primer products will function in multiple roles. We'll give more detail on which primers are best in our next section. If you are on a really tight budget and your paint is in pretty good condition (no cracking, peeling, severe gloss loss, fading etc) then primer may not be necessary. However, you should check with the manufacturer of the paint brand you select to confirm they recommend use without a primer.
What kind of primer should I buy?
As we discussed in the previous section there are a lot of primer options available. Choosing the right primer is depends on the condition of your vehicle but we'll do our best to distill it down to a few of the best options. If you have any bare metal on your vehicle we strongly recommend a 2K (2 part) epoxy primer. Epoxy primer is the best for adhesion to metal and providing corrosion resistance. It's likely you don't have bare metal on your car to begin with but part of the refinishing process typically would involve sanding areas smooth and applying body filler as needed which will likely expose some bare metal. Often only a quart or two is needed to spot prime areas where bare metal is exposed. However, serious restoration projects often involve priming the entire vehicle with epoxy primer as added insurance for corrosion resistance and adhesion. On areas where there is a lot of small dings, scratches or body filler it's a good idea to use a 2K (two part) urethane primer surfacer. Urethane primers typically offer better filling and sanding than epoxy primer so a combination of epoxy primer for the adhesion and corrosion to metal followed by a good urethane primer for filling and sanding is the perfect "one two punch" for preparing your vehicle for painting. If your vehicle is in pretty good shape already, (meaning it doesn't have a lot of dings, scratches, flaking etc), a 2K urethane sealer is a great option for providing a good foundation for your color coats. Some paint manufacturers offer urethane sealer in a wide range of colors so you can match the color of your primer closer to the color of your final finish. Matching the color of your primer closer to the color of your final finish reduces the amount of color coats (usually the most expensive part) needed and when those inevitable stone chips or scratches happen they are less visible over a color keyed primer than over just a typical grey primer in most cases. For primer selection we generally recommend avoiding lacquer type primers, aerosol or spray bomb primers, and enamel primers due to potential issues with recoatability, and durability long term.
What kind of color coat should I use?
There are a lot of color coat options available to auto paint refinishers today with varying performance and costs. Knowing the durability, appearance performance, and general cost of these various types of product I would highly recommend either purchasing a 2K (2 part) urethane single stage topcoat or, preferentially, a urethane basecoat/clearcoat system. A urethane single stage is a product that provides both the color of your finish and the gloss sheen in one product while a basecoat/clearcoat system consists of a color layer (the basecoat) and an additional layer (called clearcoat) to provide the final gloss appearance. It may appear the urethane single stage is the obvious route because it requires only one product to achieve both gloss and color, however, despite the added cost and extra steps, a vast majority of all cars rolling off assembly lines today are painted with a basecoat/clearcoat process. Basecoat/Clearcoat offers enhanced metallic and pearlescent application and effect and generally last longer than single stage finishes. Early in the finish life cycle basecoat/clearcoat and single stage finishes may have similar appearance but as time goes on the basecoat/clearcoat finish will require less maintenance (ie waxing and detailing) to maintain the high gloss finish. Costs are higher for a base/clear system versus a single stage system but the overall service life improvements will reduce maintenance cost and likely preserve a greater resale value for your vehicle. Savvy shoppers are finding deals online for basecoar/clearcoat kits that are comparable or even less in cost than many single stage finishes.

How to Use the Spray Gun to Paint Your Car

Spraying your car with a spray can be quite stressful even though you are a professional; the solution is to learn how to spray with a car paint spray gun which is an alternative to the can that was formally used.
Do you think the Spray Gun is difficult to use? No it is not! All you need is to master the techniques and you will love the fantastic result it will give you at the end of the day.
Personally, I think the hard part of using a car paint spray gun is setting it up. Even this can become a second nature to you when you keep practicing what you will learn as you read along.
Step One.
Check your air and fluid flow aperture on your spray gun for proper delivery. Adjust the gun to spray horizontally when you open the air knob totally. Then adjust the fluid knob so that you can be able to depress the trigger at 1/4 inch with each pull. Practice spraying on a piece of cardboard to determine an even flow of the fluid, adjust accordingly.
Step Two.
A few light sprays in a circular motion is better than a one time heavy spray. You should aim for a thin coated finish which you will practice on any smooth piece around before spraying your car. When the car paint spray gun is not used properly, after the paint dries, you will discover a texture of an oil peel. This you must avoid by spraying evenly. Spray lightly in a repeated pattern.
Step Three.
It all depends on the surface you are using the spray gun, if it is narrow, adjust your fan pattern for a narrower spray. Do same thing to a wide surface like the rear section of the car.
Step Four.
The Car paint spray gun should be held about 7 inches away from the surface you want to paint. Keep spraying perpendicularly in an even movement about 3 inches away from the center of the surface. Make sure to release the trigger at the end of each stroke. Repeat the technique to achieve a professional result.
Step Five.
Spray the areas that are not obvious first. This will help you to avoid leaving them after you have sprayed the more conspicuous areas. Allow the first coat to dry before you add another and do not touch the spray paint with your fingerprints. When using a car paint spray gun, flick your wrist when you want to begin, so that, there will not be any demarcation whatsoever on your spraying.

Preventing Paint Damage

There are a few things you can do to keep from spending money on your vehicle's paint coat. By doing a little research and maintenance ahead of time, you can prevent most chipped paint incidents. Doing small paint maintenance can prevent larger maintenance projects later.
One of the first things that you can do when you purchase your automobile is to have a clear paint coat protector applied to your vehicle. You can do this yourself or have the dealership apply it before you drive off the lot. If you choose to apply it yourself, read the directions very carefully. You want to make sure that you apply it exactly as the manufacturer recommends.
There is some question about the effectiveness of these clear coat protectors. In the end, though, the time or money involved in applying one of these coats will pay off. They can stop any premature fading or harm to your car's paint. The protector will wick away water, chemicals or other possible damage causing agents. This can be the first step in lengthening the life of your vehicle.
Something else you can invest in after the purchase of your vehicle is a clear film. These films are applied directly to your vehicle with an adhesive. Invisible to the eye, they are a great way to protect a new paint job and keep you from spending money on car repair. Generally, these films are applied to areas of the automobile or truck that receive the most sun, water or bug damage. Places like the front bumper; hood and roof of the vehicle need more protecting than other areas.
Finally, another habit to get into is cleaning your vehicle on a regular basis. By keeping your vehicle clean, especially during winter months, you are lengthening the life of your paint job. Salt, road dirt and mud, tar from construction sites can all damage your vehicle's paint, causing necessary car repair.
Take your vehicle through an automated wash or wash it yourself. Either way, you need to make sure that a thorough cleaning job is done on your automobile. One of the places that often gets over looked but can cause the most damage is the underside of your vehicle. Especially during winter months, it is necessary to wash these areas. Road salt used to melt ice and snow can cause irreparable damage.
Thoroughly clean the wheel wells and under carriage of your vehicle. This will prevent premature rusting that can lead to paint chipping. When a wheel well or under carriage is left to rust, the vehicle's metal body is weakened. This weakening in turn causes issues with the paint. Cleaning this area of your vehicle will also keep you from major car repair bills later.
By maintaining your vehicle through paint protectors and through regular washing, you can lengthen the life of your car's paint job, preventing major car repair.

Visit a Paint Shop and Watch Your Car's Value Rise

Repairing a vehicle's visual imperfections like scratches is one of the best ways to increase value. When it's time to sell a vehicle, potential buyers view scratches and dents as a major red flag. It can give the appearance that the car was in an accident or not cared for. Paint shops can repair damage like deep scratches for a very small investment, potentially increasing the car's value by up to $1,000. Combined with a deep cleaning of the car's interior and wheels, fixing chipped paint can improve the chances of selling a car for a good price.
How Paint Services Increase Value
First impressions count for a lot when selling a car. Although the mechanical shape of the car is most important, buyers typically feel more comfortable buying a car that looks pristine and new. A car with scratches or dents raises a red flag to buyers and signals that the car may not have been maintained properly. It may also give the appearance that the vehicle was in an accident. A paint shop can increase the value of a car by restoring its original appearance for a very small investment.
What a Paint Shop Can Repair
A paint shop can affordably repair a range of scratches in a car's paint job. Under the top layer of paint is a coating of primer on top of metal. If only the paint is scratched it's possible to simply sand and buff the scratch. Many people try this themselves but it can easily make the problem worse. Scratches that go all the way to the metal require the attention of a trained professional at a body shop. For jobs like this, specialized tools are needed as well as professional paint matching.
Improve Appearance and Maintain Value
Everyone prefers the look of a clean, scratch-free car, whether it's new or old. Regular visits to a paint shop to fix small scratches as they occur can maintain the value of a vehicle in a number of ways. It prevents scratches from becoming worse and reduces the chance of chipped paint flaking. Existing chips in the paint will worsen over time and allow rust to build up on the car. Paint shops can repair these damages when they occur for a small price, although the problem becomes more expensive the longer it exists.
Choosing a Paint Shop
Selecting the right body shop or paint shop to repair scratches and paint chips on a car is very important. Dedicated paint shops are a good option for some individuals because they specialize in paint jobs and are experts in paint matching and filling techniques. However, many body shops now offer paint services that rival expensive auto paint shops. Body shops typically employ technicians specially trained in scratch removal and paint chip repair that can restore the original appearance of a vehicle, increasing overall value.
It's almost always a good decision to repair scratches, chipped paint and dents in a vehicle before selling it. These imperfections raise issues with a potential buyer but they can be fixed very affordably at most body shops. Typically, everything from chipped paint to a deep scratch in the metal can be fixed at a body shop as well. Always select a shop with a specialized team that has experience with filling and paint matching. Although the repairs may cost $100 - $300, it's not uncommon to see a large return on investment.

Waterborne Paint For Auto Body Repair

Car paints are mostly used for auto body repair. And it is known that most paints are solvent based. But the fact that solvents can escape into the air means that they also contribute to air pollution. In fact, the majority of such organic solvents impose great damage to the environment.
And today, higher air quality standards demand the use of water-based paint for auto body repair uses. This demand will soon be a standard.
About couple of years ago, two of California's largest air quality management districts imposed emissions regulations and required the use of water based paints. And as expected, this trend instigated new legislations that aim the reduction of harmful emissions from the automotive finishing and refinishing sectors, at least in California.
Essentially, one of the most infamous regulation changes that automotive refinishing industry in Southern California has dealt with was the lowering of the limits of VOCs found in products used to paint cars.
VOC actually stands for "volatile organic compounds". These are solvents and other compounds contribute to pollution. Typical VOCs consist of the solvents in paints, adhesives and inks. However, VOCs are not just limited to paint supplies as plastics release VOCs as well when they age. And these chemicals are alleged to react with gases in the atmosphere that contribute to smog, pollution, and toxic death.
This is understandably why there's a pressing call for the use of water-based paint for automotive painting today. As you know, water is not organic and while it evaporates as well into the air, it is not a VOC.
With tighter regulations set by California Air Resources Board, there was a reformulation to switch solvent-based paint to waterborne. This step would allow refinishers to meet the new environment-friendly standards. Nowadays, finding solvent based materials becomes more and more difficult.
However, there are some considerations to remember in using waterborne paint for auto body repair. Although there are some available waterborne primers, generally you still have to use traditional, solvent-based primer. As a result, colors tend to dry to a dull satin finish. You will have to clear it to achieve the shine you want.

Car Paint Chip Repair

Normal wear and tear and ordinary driving conditions can cause chips in your car's paint. One area that is particularly prone to paint chips is the hood of the car, although your paint can become chipped in any area from debris on the road or even accidents with shopping carts at the local grocery. Chips on your car's paint job can really deflect from the total look of your vehicle and even reduce its resale value if you decide to put it up for sale or trade it in on a newer model. Car paint chip repair can be expensive when hired out, and very tedious when done as a DIY project, especially if you are not accustomed to doing work like this. Repairing the chip in your car's paint job should be done as soon as possible to avoid rust damage or prevent further rusting.
Chip or Scratch?
Before repairing your car paint chip, make sure it is a chip and not just a scratch. The difference between the two is the width. A mere scratch can be repaired using a paint pen and then polishing the scratch out. If the chip is an actual chip, you will need to repair it and fill it in yourself as it is not worth the expense to have a professional refinish the area for one small chip. There are some disadvantages to repairing a chip or scratch yourself, and among them is the fact that most people don't have the time or the skills to accomplish the task. And if not done right, car paint chip repair is a temporary fix at best, and can sometimes worsen the problem.

Automotive Paint Spray

Car paints deteriorates and wear away over time and it can be explained in sync with the natural oxidation process which causes deterioration of paint, pollution and UV light. You could do certain things to restore the paint on your car like washing your car thoroughly on a regular basis, polishing (will remove haze, fills in the surface and maintains a glossy surface), the top layer of oxidized paint should also be cleared as it can damage more area.
Facts about Spray texture
Spray texture also called as "popcorn finish" is a paint-like coating used for painting cars. The texture comes from Styrofoam or polystyrene mixed into a sticky liquid base. The product is purchased dry and is available in various textures. Amount of water used is important as too little water and you have a paint that will not spray smoothly, too much water and it tends to show small cracks as it dries. Paint's hiding ability and adhesion will decrease with the level of water in the mix, so it is critical to have a right amount of water in the mix for sound, long lasting finish.
To assure strong adhesion of the texture, cleaning and priming the surface is very important, the purpose of cleaning is clear from the fact that paint will stick to the dust instead of the surface.
You can go for one or multiple coats, though thick single coat is not advisable. If you are thinking of having a second coat it should be allowed to dry overnight also be sure to thoroughly cover thing's you don't want the texture on or in.
If your surface has a lot of scratches and dents a less than perfectly smooth paint texture is actually desired otherwise if the paint is smooth and shiny- you'll see every scratch and dent in the surface, so in the cases of cars with lots of scratches, it is best to mist the paint slightly by putting on lighter coats that don't self-level so much. Don't spray the paint on too heavy, it will be smooth & runny which means you'll have drips on vertical surfaces.
If you done it correctly, the paint will "SELF-LEVEL"-- the surface will "run together" and will look wet and create a smooth surface, which will require no or little sanding if you are going for a glassy smooth surface look.
If you put your best effort into it, you should be able to see a brilliant, different and shiny car.

How To Paint Your Car

Masking & Preparation
To begin this venture we need to clean the metal on the car. After we clean the metal, make sure it's dry before we begin to mask the car, also do a last minute check to be sure it's free of all dirt grease and other contaminants.
Now it's time to mask the car, and be sure to mask all that you don't want painted leaving no masking hanging of the car, that would get in the way of a nice paint job. The main idea of the whole thing is to produce the best quality paint possible with the given surroundings, it is preferred that you have a paint booth, but if not, make sure that the area that you use to perform the work is ultra clean and dust free.
After the car has been masked it's time to get ready to spray the primer, once again make sure that you have cleaned your surroundings, it's best to have some water on the floor to keep the dust down, once you are confident that the area is clean then you can begin checking the spray guns to be sure that they are clean. This is a very important step especially if they're not your guns, dirty guns will make an ugly paint job there for wasting all of your time.
Now that you have determined that the paint guns are clean, make sure that your respirator is in good working order. Now be sure that you have all the products that you need to perform the primer job on the car. You will need primer, reducer and catalyst, you will also need strainers, stir sticks and a measuring device.
It's best not to have to leave the paint booth during the time that your priming the car. Reducer comes in different temperatures and you need to know what temp is best for your working conditions.
The temps are as follows, their is a high temp that is designed to dry slower when it's hot in the area where your working, high temp is good for 80 degrees and up, theirs also a mid temp, this probably the most popular temp used this is best used from 55 to 80 degrees and is designed to dry faster to make up for the colder temp, due to the fact primer will run easier in the cold weather. Now we have low temp reducer this will dry extremely slow therefore for giving the primer a better chance to run. I tell you all this in an effort to help you better understand the products that you are working with, the more you know the better armed you are for problems when they happen.
Now it's time to enter the paint booth, and as you do pay attention to the booth filters and be sure that they sure clean also. Now get your can of primer and read the instructions on the side, usually the mix is 4:1 or 4 parts primer to one part reducer and a cap or two of catalyst and for the best results follow these instructions. After you spray the first coat of primer, you will need to wait 15 to 20 minute before you can spray the next and so on, the way I like to do this is to give the body work areas a coat or two first to build them up. The whole reason we use primer is is to give the paint a smooth surface to stick to and give the metal some protection from the elements, it's usually a good idea to get 4 or 5 good coats on the car.
If you are really serious about the way that you want it to look the you might want to take the primer one step farther and use an etching primer before you spray the urethane or epoxy primer, an etching primer will give the top coat just a little more to stick to. Etching primer has no building qualities there for it's not used for smoothing out waves in your work, but it will make the primer stick allot better.
I do suggest that you always use a urethane primer,and not lacquer type,as lacquer can and will shrink urethane or epoxy is recommended for best results. Epoxy is a very hard primer to sand but it's extremely tough, and urethane is I think probably your best choice,because it's high building and easy sanding, their are a lot of brands to choose from, I use DuPont euro myself but it's all up to you to choose that.
Now that your card is primed, it's time to remove the masking, and I like to do this while it's still a little wet for the sake of ease, just be very careful about how you do it, you don't want to screw up all that nice work, so just take it slow and easy while pulling the masking off your car.
(Sanding)
Well now the hard part is here, before you start to sand the car you'll want to be sure that it's been guide coated, this will make it easier for you to get an ultra smooth finish. Heres where we weed the boys form the men, if your trying to do a show finish on the car that your painting, you will want to sand it by hand with water running on it all the time.
This is the hard part,and you will have lazy people that will want to use a machine to do this, this is just a word to the wise, you have allot better control over a hand block. The best way to produce this type of high quality work is to have the best control over it that you can, offten a machine will go through your primer. If your trying to produce show quality work this would mean priming that area again I.E. more time spent, this is time that could be spent better doing other things.
Now I will explain a bit about what a guide coat is, this is it in a nut-shell. The guide coat is the step right after the car has been primed, you should do this before you pull the masking, what this in tails is misting a light coat of black paint over the primer so that you can see the low spots in your work, and no matter how good you are, you will have low spots. The idea behind this is to sand all the guide coat off with out going through to the metal on your car.
Now it's time to start the actual sanding of the car, you need to pay close attention to detail on this part of the paint job, the better you sand it, the better it will look. I usually start with 320 grit wet paper on a medium hard block, this grit is good for getting the guide coat smoothed out, their will most likely be some small low spots that will require either spot filler or more primer. This is one of those areas where you need to pay a little attention to detail, here you will need to look at the depth of the low spot and think about it, how low is it will primer alone fill it, or will it take spot filler and then primer.
Now that you've finished that part it's time to move on to the next grit of paper, I usually move to 400 grit on a medium- hard sanding block from here, you don't want to move up to far because it can leave scratches form the previous grit of paper, so a word to the wise, don't get in a hurry and move up to far a once this will leave seeable scratches in your work. After you've sanded the whole car with the 400 grit wet paper then inspect it for bare metal and guide coat still there.
The whole idea with sanding is to make the primer look the way that you want the paint to look, I sand my primer until it has a smooth shiny finish on it, as if it were the paint on the car.
You need to have a vision of how you want it to look, the one thing that you need to know is, the better you want it to look, the more you will pay for materials. Just a word of caution cheap paint materials are just exactly that cheap!!!!! and don't use them if you want a nice paint job.
You might save some money but you will not save the agony of a crappy looking paint job. Think about this before you go and buy cheap primers and paints, do I love my car or is it just some turd to push me to work and the old ladies and back, if you love your car then don't put cheap crap on it.
Now that I'm through with my little lecture on low quality products, it's time to move on to the next sanding step. From 400 grit I usually move up to 600 grit wet paper, this is where I usually stop unless requested to go one more step, this is really as far as you need to go with the sanding. After you finish with the 600 grit do one final inspection of the work before cleaning it.
Well now it's time to clean the car, for this just use soap and water, just like washing a car normally. You should blow it dry though, this being the main difference between this and a regular wash job, be sure to blow all the water out of the little cracks in the car, like the cowl area, under the hood, between the doors and in the trunk lid. Believe me this will blow water on your paint during the actual painting of the car, so be very through about this step.
If you miss some and it happens to get in your paint during the spraying process it will bubble the paint, the paint will look horrible so be sure to get all of the water out of the car first.
Now it's to mask for the actual paint, for this refer back to the top of this page. Masking right is an art and you better take this part very serious if you want a good job.
Now that you've masked your car it's time to put it in the paint booth, hopefully this is a temperature controlled booth, in any case when you roll that car in the booth all you should have to do is clean and spray, again before you put your car in the booth make sure that it's ultra clean in there and ready to go.
Now make sure that you have everything you need in there to paint the car I.E. paint, reducer, catalyst, stir sticks, strainers and stir sticks and a measuring stick. Once again check your respirator and be sure that it's working properly, tie your hair back and if you have a beard cover your face.
Follow all instructions on the back of the paint can to the letter or it could cause problems with the out come of your paint.
Now that you have the car in the booth, be sure to double check the masking on it, what you are looking for here is perfection and nothing less.
This means everything that if you don't want it painted it must be masked for sure, their is no room for error here. Now you need to take a look at the supplies that you have to do the job with, and inventory them to be sure that you have everything you need to complete the job, the last thing you need is to find that you don't have something right in the middle of painting the car. Here's a list of what you will need for the job.
Supply List
1) Paint
2) sealer
3) reducer
4) Catalyst
5) Tack Cloths, preferably designed for clear coat
6) Measuring Cups
7) Stir Sticks
8) Measuring Stick
9) Strainers
10) Respirator in working order
Now I will give you a few things to think about, if your painting with metallic paints then you must pay allot attention to the settings on your paint gun. Metallic paints will tend to get lighter if the pressure goes up and darker if it goes down, your fluid flow and fan on your gun will also effect this.
Now I will give you a basic mixing chart, most paints will follow this chart.
Instructions
1) get your paint ready to pour.
2) make sure that your mixing cup is clean.
3) Get your strainer and sticks.
4) Put a strainer in the top of the measuring cup.
5) Now pay close attention to the level of paint in the cup.
Paint Mixing Table. Always be sure to read and follow the paint manufactures mixing guide lines. These mixing ratios are just a basic idea of what to do, things will change with different manufactures.
Recommended Air Pressure At Gun Head. Paint Mix Ratios. Paint Product.
25-40 PSI Mix 4:1:1 Base Coat
25-40 PSI Mix 4:1:1 Sealer
25-40 PSI Mix 4:1:1 Clear Coat
25-40 PSI Mix 2:1:1 Primer Coat
When using a paint gun, you try to achieve a certain spray pattern without any heavy or light areas, in the pattern chart above you would try to achieve pattern (A).
Now a lesson on gun angle. Their are only two angles you should ever need to use when holding a spray gun, and they are 45 and 90 degrees angles to the surface of the car that you are spraying, these angles will give you the best outcome possible, and also you should try to keep the spray gun at about 6 to 8 inches from your work. If you get much closer you will more then likely cause a run in the paint and, much more distance and you will get a dry look to your paint job, you also need to get a feel for the speed that you need to move the gun according to the air pressure and fluid flow of the gun.

Repairing Car Paint Scratches

There are many companies out there these days that offer paint repairs, dent repairs and other services to get your car looking better than ever. You should make sure you're spending your money with the right company and getting a quality repair done. Some companies offer a lifetime warranty with their repairs, you want to make sure you're getting a lifetime warranty incase the job isn't done right the first time. Some companies also offer free quotes, you should always get a few quotes from numerous companies to ensure you're not paying to much for your repairs.
Attempting to repair the paint yourself should never be done, this could go terribly wrong and you will find yourself with a big problem if it goes wrong. If you get the wrong color or get the wrong finish it won't look right. So when you're in need of any paint scratch repairs it's best to see the professionals, at least their work is guaranteed so you know you're going to receive a quality job. If you attempt to repair the paint yourself and it goes wrong, you will end up paying more money to have it repaired by the professionals.
When choosing your paint restoration company, you should look around for a quality company. I would advise checking out some of their work before you get them to do any work on your car, this will give you an idea of the quality of work they provide. Some companies will provide better work than others, but they will also charge more. Depending on the job that is required should depend on where you take your car. If it's a minor scratch then it's generally an easy fix, so I would take it to the local guy. But if it's a major repair, you're better off looking around to get the best price possible.
It's always best to have your repair done by a good reliable company. If you take your car to someone that doesn't know what they're doing, or a friend that says he can repair it for you. You aren't going to get a warranty on the job. So it's best to take your car to the local company that offers a lifetime warranty, so if your paint starts to fade or flake. You can take it back there and have it repaired without paying any further fees. If the paint is not right, or doesn't look good. You can have it repaired to your satisfaction.
So when you're having your paint restored or getting your dents repaired, you should always find the most suitable company for you needs. Take a look at their work before having them do any work on your car and remember to get a few different quotes from multiple companies. This will ensure you don't end up being ripped off or end up with a bad job on your car. Don't forget to make sure you get a lifetime warranty on any work you have done, I wouldn't advise getting any work done by a company that doesn't offer you a warranty on the work they provide.

Insider Secret To A Show Car Paint Finish

Have you tried polishing a car by hand lately? If you have, you might think your car polish is defective when the real issue is your vehicle's paint. That's because automotive paint finishes have become much harder in the past few years, allowing them to last longer and resist scratching and chipping like never before.
The changes in paint technology, while very beneficial, have introduced a new problem for car owners. While it was possible to maintain automobile paintwork by hand just a few years ago, today's new paint finishes make it nearly impossible. If your vehicle's paintwork has minor scratches, swirl marks or water spot etching, you will need a buffer polisher to correct the problem. The good news is that the number one buffing machine for both home and professional use, the Porter Cable 7424, is very effective on even the most modern paint finishes, including the latest ceramic paints used by Mercedes-Benz.
The original Porter Cable Polisher and the new 7424xp are dual-action polishers. What this means is that the polishing head rotates (free-spins on its spindle) and orbits (powered by the motor) around the center spindle. A mass counterweight mechanism on the spindle dampens vibrations. This polishing action, often referred to as "random orbital" or just "orbital," totally prevents symmetrical buffing marks, paint burns and the other types of automotive finish damage that people associate with high-speed buffing machines. That means if you use the polisher as intended it's virtually impossible to damage your car, even with no experience.
This type of electric polisher closely mimics the motion of circular hand polishing. Imagine being able to make 2,500 to 6,000 tight hand circles in a single minute. That should give you a pretty good idea of how this machine does its job. Basically it works just like you do, only at super-human speed. Plus, it never gets tired!
If you have previously owned a car waxing machine that made a lot of racket, but did little else to fix the damage and restore shine, you will appreciate the brilliance of one of these buffing machines. It has all of the power needed to get the job done, yet it's small enough and light enough that it's easy to use.
The secret to using a dual action polisher with shining results is choosing the right polish and polishing pads for the job. Basically polishing pads come in three grades: cutting, polishing and finishing. A cutting pad is coarse and used to remove damage. A polishing pad has a bit if coarseness, but not much. It's used to remove very minor damage and restore full gloss. A finishing pad is very soft. It's used to polish without cutting and to apply waxes and glazes.
You must use an appropriate polish with each type of pad. Like the pads themselves, polishes have different grades of cut. A compound, for example, is a cutting polish. Compounds are rated by the level of sanding scratch they can remove. A compound designed to remove 2000 to 2500 grit sanding scratches will effectively remove swirl marks and water spots, whereas a product that can remove 1200 to 1500 grit sanding marks will remove fine scratches. If you can feel a scratch with your fingernail, you should remove it with 2000 grit wet and dry sandpaper before polishing.
If you're confused about which polish to use to remove swirl marks, fine scratches and water spots, let me recommend Meguiar's Ultimate Compound. It's probably the best consumer grade product available today, and it's easy to find at your local auto parts store.
After compounding to remove damage, you might think the finish looks great, but I recommend finishing off the job with a fine polish. Most compounds, including the new Meguiar's product, will leave just a touch of hazing in the clear coat. All it takes to remove the hazing and restore a brilliant shine is a fine paint polish. I prefer and recommend Klasse All-In-One. It's an amazing product that will produce a final finish that blows you away.

The Need For Car Paint Protection

If you've just driven your new car off the lot, it's probably looking pretty great. That fancy new paint job shines in the sun, looks glossy, and makes a statement about the kind of person you are; the kind of person that buys new cars. Overtime, though, small rocks, road debris and bugs will eat away at your paint job. There's nothing much you can do except apply some touch ups and hope no one notices. However, there is a different way.
A protective car film will keep all of this from happening. If applied before the road debris ruins your day by chipping your paint, a clear car cover, like a bra, will prevent those chips from happening in the first place. The best protective films have to ability to provide defense from things as heavy as rocks.
In terms of your paint job, bugs can also be a problem. They're absolutely unavoidable and if you drive your car at all, you're bound to hit a few. The acid in most bugs will erode your paint and if you ignore it, you're bound to see some damage. Obviously there are products that will remove dead bugs from your car but wouldn't it be easier to buy a protective film that keeps them off your paint to begin with?
Not only do you want your car to look as new as possible for as long as possible, but keeping your paint job pristine will up the resale value. Most people keep their cars for roughly five years before trading up. If you want to get the most for your money, keep your car looking great. One of the best ways to do this is by being preventative and keeping the paint as clean as possible. Protective films do that.
Car covers are readily available and generally inexpensive. Indeed, they're much less expensive than a new paint job. The good ones come with a guarantee and are pre-cut to fit your specific car or truck. No one likes getting a full sheet of laminate they have to cut themselves. The benefits of a product like this are huge. They provide a clear, protective barrier that can not only deflect small rocks and road debris but will also keep things like bugs from ruining your paint job. If you ever want to resale your car, it's definitely a smart idea to consider a protective film.

Repairing Automotive Paint Damage Caused by Bird Poop in 5 Minutes

Every time you take your car out of the garage it's exposed to potential paint damage hazards. Some of the most common issues are acid rain, insects, battery acid and road stones. There is another hazard that's particularly messy and harmful, and that's bird poop.
Bird poop is essentially an acid. It can have a pH level between 3.5 and 4.5. That means it will burn delicate surfaces unless it's removed relatively quickly. On car paint, in particular clear coat finishes, bird droppings burn the surface, causing a permanent etch mark.
It's not at all uncommon for a large dropping to cause paint damage that's 2 mils deep, or more. To understand what that means to your car's clear coat, good laser printer paper is about 2 mils thick. More importantly, a quality clear coat finish is typically 4 to 6 mils. That means a heavy-duty bird bomb won't leave a lot of clear coat in the area that needs to be repaired. The good news is that paint etching from hard water spots and bird droppings is an easy repair you can make at home. Most repairs like this take less than 5 minutes.
Fixing Bird Poop Paint Damage
The only way to repair the paint damage caused by a bird is to polish the affected area with a fine cut rubbing compound. The basic procedure is to use the compound to cut away the damage and re-polish the surface so it looks new again. This is exactly the step taken by professionals and the factory when they remove painting defects. Your only concern is over-polishing. Be careful that you don't over do it and polish all the way through the top coat.
The best car polish to use is one that's formulated for removing paint scratches or restoring oxidized paint. The product I highly recommend is Meguiar's Ultimate Compound. It's available in most auto parts stores, and it works great by hand or with an electric car polisher.
If the damage covers an area larger than about 1 square inch, a polishing compound alone might not do the trick. For larger areas of damage you can make the repair faster and easier by first removing the damaged paint with 2000 or 3000 grit wet sanding paper, then re-polish the area with the compound. This may sound severe, but it's not. It's a safe procedure used by paint and body shop professionals.
Preventing Bird Damage
Although it's difficult to avoid being splattered with bird waste, it's not at all difficult to prevent the damage. The sooner you remove the mess, the less likely it will be that your paint will be damaged. Conversely, the longer the mess remains on your vehicle's paint the more damage it will create.
If you live in an area where you are prone to getting pooped on, I highly recommend keeping a small bottle of car detailing spray and a microfiber cloth or two in your vehicle. It will come in handy for all kinds of spills and emergency cleanups. The Meguiar's Quik Detailer product is very inexpensive and easy to find. When you need to clean up a bird mess, simply give the bird droppings a few shots of the spray, allow it to soak for a moment or two, then wipe it away.

The Advantages of Automotive Paint Protection Film

Paint Protection Film, or PPF (sometimes referred to as Clear Bra), is a thermoplastic urethane film which is most often applied to the forward or leading painted surfaces of a vehicle. Originally, this type of protective film was designed for military use on helicopter rotors to protect them from sand particles, and over the years it has expanded to general aviation, racing, and finally consumer vehicles and even electronic devices such as mobile phones. Paint Protection Film has been in use on privately owned vehicles for several years now, and with good reason.
From a maintenance standpoint, PPF is an excellent investment for any vehicle. The clear coated urethane film helps preserve the paint finish while protecting surfaces vulnerable to stone chips, bug damage, abrasion, and weathering. Not only will your vehicle's paint be preserved from these types of damages, the film will allow your paint to age naturally, and will not yellow from prolonged sun exposure. Additionally, you can clean and maintain your vehicle the same as before. The nearly invisible film can be washed and waxed just like the rest of the painted surfaces to retain that high gloss shine you expect.
These protective films are typically applied to the impact zones on vehicles parts, or otherwise vulnerable areas such as hoods, fenders, side mirrors, bumpers, grills, rocker panels, headlights covers, floodlights, car door protection, luggage areas, rear bumper decks, roof and A-pillars. Most vendors guarantee their product not to haze, yellow or peel and offer a warranty of anywhere from two to five years when properly installed. The film contains ultra-violet stabilizers to prevent discoloration or degradation of the product itself while still allowing the sun's rays to pass through to the paint so if you do decide to remove the film your vehicle will not be two-toned, or "sunburned". Unlike leather car bras or plastic shields, these clear protective films are practically invisible and do not substantially affect the overall appearance of your vehicle.
All things considered, a transparent protective film is a far more appealing solution to many consumers. Leather bras and bug shields do what they're supposed to, but many who enjoy the appearance of their vehicle find that these protective items are not at all appealing. Since paint protection film is virtually invisible, the look of the vehicle is not altered in any significant way, and it performs just as good, if not better, than the alternative. It's like a second, tougher skin for your vehicle.
Most paint protection films, once applied, are 100% safe to remove from the vehicle at any time without damage to the paint and finish underneath. It is also worth noting that no debris can get underneath the protective coat, since it adheres directly to the paint. It can be applied to any painted surface on the vehicle, and even some areas without paint, such as headlight and tail light covers. The value of the film is clear, and it's actually cheaper in many cases to apply a protective film coat than to repaint all or a portion of your vehicle later on once it has been damaged and scratched.